Krakow and Auschwitz: An Honest 3-Day Photo Journey

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Main Market Square Rynek Glowny with the Cloth Hall and St Marys Basilica in Krakow. — Krakow’s breathtaking Main Market Square (Rynek Główny) on our final morning, framed by the historic Cloth Hall and the towering spires of St. Mary’s Basilica. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F4, 1/60 sec, ISO 400

For over a decade, visiting Krakow and Auschwitz was a journey I deeply wanted to make, but life—and my devotion to my dogs, whom I could never bear to leave in kennels—always kept me grounded. That changed heartbreakingly in November 2024 when my beautiful nine-year-old cocker spaniel, Izzy, was suddenly diagnosed with advanced heart disease during a routine booster injection. Within three short weeks, she was gone. This was a terrible time, and it still is incredibly hard. But with the house suddenly so quiet and no one left to look after, it meant I finally had the bittersweet ability to make this trip. So, I booked a three-night trip on impulse for March 2026. As a terrified flyer, I barely slept for a week prior to travel, and by the time we landed in Poland, my body was pushing its limits.

Day 1: Arrival in Krakow: Castle Views, Square Wanders, and Unwinding

We landed in Kraków in the early afternoon. Since we had eaten a hearty breakfast at Liverpool Airport before taking off, we didn’t need a proper sit-down dinner straight away, but picked up some crusty rolls to take with us on the day trip for the next day. Despite my back and foot pain flare-up, we decided to drop our bags and walk up to the historic Wawel Royal Castle to take in some of the panoramic city views. From there, we slowly wandered down into the vibrant Main Market Square (Rynek Główny).

The Adam Mickiewicz Monument standing in the Main Market Square of Kraków, Poland, with the distinct towers of St. Mary's Basilica against a clear blue sky. — A bright afternoon view of the Adam Mickiewicz Monument and the iconic towers of St. Mary’s Basilica in Kraków’s Main Market Square. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F3.5, 1/60 sec, ISO 800

By then, the constant walking had caused the stabbing pain in my foot to intensify, and total travel exhaustion had fully set in. Standing right outside a McDonald’s, looking around at all the unfamiliar places to eat, my partner and I turned to each other and said, “Should we just go in here?” So we did. Honestly, that quick, familiar comfort was exactly what we needed at that moment.

Once we finished eating, we made our way back down to the water for our pre-booked evening river cruise. The modern boat was fully glazed, featuring panoramic windows and a welcome drink bar. As we drifted along the calm Vistula River, Krakow‘s historic skyline beautifully unfolded against the dark night sky. Seeing the majestic Wawel Castle, Skałka Church, and the Monastery of the Norbertan Sisters completely illuminated was an incredible sight. Even though I am passionate about photography, I made a conscious choice to put the camera down for most of the night. I took just a couple of photos to capture the memory—including the glowing blue arches of the Father Bernatek Footbridge reflecting on the water—preferring to just sit back in the chilly evening air and truly relax (You can see the exact camera and lenses I use on my Photography Gear Journey post.

Father Bernatek Footbridge at night over the Vistula River in Krakow. — The historic steel arches of the Piłsudski Bridge, casting brilliant blue and gold reflections across the Vistula River during our evening cruise. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F3.5, 1/25 sec, ISO 6400

On our way back to the hotel after the cruise, we walked past St. Mary’s Basilica once more. Seeing the towering spires beautifully lit up against the dark night sky was an incredible sight, and despite my exhaustion, I couldn’t resist capturing one last lovely photo of it glowing in the dark.

St. Mary's Basilica in Kraków, Poland, beautifully illuminated at night, showing the detailed architecture of its two asymmetrical towers against a dark sky. — Night time illumination highlights the dramatic Gothic architecture of St. Mary’s Basilica in Kraków. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F2.5, 1/80 sec, ISO 1250

Day 2: The Double Trip—From Subterranean Wonder to Historical Reflection

Because we only had three nights in Poland, we made the ambitious decision to book a double-excursion for our first full day: a morning touring the Wieliczka Salt Mines, followed immediately by an afternoon at Auschwitz. In hindsight, it was a bittersweet choice. On one hand, it allowed us to witness two of the country’s most significant landmarks. On the other hand, it proved to be a grueling, deeply exhausting day—especially when managing a chronic back condition and an active flare-up of plantar fasciitis.

The Depths of the Wieliczka Salt Mines

We tackled the Salt Mines first, descending deep into the earth. Walking through the underground tunnels, the sheer scale of the cavernous spaces left me speechless. The absolute highlight was stepping into St. Kinga’s Chapel. Seeing an entire subterranean cathedral completely carved from rock salt—from the intricate religious wall reliefs to the massive, glittering chandeliers hanging from the ceiling—was a true marvel to photograph. However, with every step on the cold, unforgiving stone floors, the stabbing pain in my foot was steadily intensifying. Luckily we had 45 minutes dinner break where we sat and ate out crusty rolls and rested before boarding the coach for Auschwitz.

St Kinga's Chapel salt altar and chandelier inside Wieliczka Salt Mine. — The spectacular main altar of St. Kinga’s Chapel, featuring an intricate crystal chandelier and religious statues completely carved from rock salt. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F2.5, 1/60 sec, ISO 4000

Pushing Through the Pain at Auschwitz

Black and white photograph of brick prisoner barracks and tree-lined avenues at Auschwitz I. — The eerie, uniform layout of the brick prisoner blocks and gravel avenues lined with bare winter trees inside Auschwitz I. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F3.5, 1/120 sec, ISO 400

By the time our tour bus pulled up to Auschwitz for the second half of the day, the plantar fasciitis had become completely unbearable. I was quite literally hopping on one foot, unable to bear any weight. Yet, as we walked through those historic gates, the immense weight and solemnity of the location completely overtook me.

Krakow and Auschwitz trip. Black and white photograph of train tracks leading to the main entrance gatehouse at Auschwitz-Birkenau. — The infamous railway tracks leading directly through the ‘Gate of Death’ entrance watchtower at Auschwitz-Birkenau. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F3.5, 1/160 sec, ISO 400

Our tour covered both sites: the main brick camp of Auschwitz I and the vast, open expanse of Birkenau with its iconic railway tracks. Auschwitz is one of those profound places that alters you; it stays with you for life. Standing in the silent courtyard where prisoners were executed, and viewing the massive glass exhibitions filled with thousands of pairs of spectacles, personal luggage, and shoes, was devastatingly moving.

Black and white photograph of confiscated prosthetic limbs and orthopedic braces at Auschwitz. — A heartbreaking mountain of confiscated prosthetic limbs, orthopedic braces, and crutches left behind by the prisoners. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F3.2, 1/60 sec, ISO 2000

Looking at the crude wooden triple bunks where people endured atrocious conditions, a profound realization hit me: the individuals imprisoned here suffered agonies far worse than anything I was experiencing. Pushing through my own temporary pain felt like the absolute least I could do out of respect for where I was standing. Drawing strength from that perspective, I refused to stop; I dug deep, pushed through the physical agony, and completed the journey.

Black and white photograph of the wall of prisoner registration identification portraits at Auschwitz. — Rows upon rows of haunting registration portraits inside the camp blocks, putting faces to the staggering human scale of the tragedy. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F3.2, 1/60 sec, ISO 1250

Black and white photograph of double barbed wire fences and brick barracks at Auschwitz I concentration camp. — The stark, uniform brick barracks of Auschwitz I, remaining silently behind layers of concrete posts and heavy barbed wire fencing. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F3.5, 1/160 sec, ISO 800

Black and white photograph of the crematorium building and chimney at Auschwitz I. — The entrance to the gas chamber and crematorium structure at the main Auschwitz I camp, left as historical evidence. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F3.5, 1/125 sec, ISO 400

Black and white photograph of the destroyed crematorium ruins at Auschwitz-Birkenau. — The fractured concrete slabs and rubble of a destroyed crematorium at Birkenau, blown up by retreating forces to hide evidence of the atrocities. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F4, 1/200sec, ISO 400

Black and white photograph of a lone brick chimney with wooden braces at Auschwitz-Birkenau. — A lone brick chimney stands supported by wooden braces on the foundation of a wooden barrack block that was destroyed at Birkenau. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F3.5, 1/160 sec, ISO 400

When our group finally climbed back onto the tour bus, the atmosphere was completely transformed. The entire bus was dead silent. Everyone sat in a solemn, deeply thoughtful quiet, processing the immense weight of what we had just witnessed.

The Evening Return: Rest and Reflection

By the time the tour bus dropped us back in Krakow, we were both completely emotionally and physically drained. Because I was in far too much pain to bother sitting in a restaurant, we just made a quick stop at a general store to pick up some simple food for tea—just some sandwiches and crisps.

Unfortunately, what should have been a straightforward 15-minute walk back to the hotel turned into a stressful ordeal. We got completely lost in the dark, and we ended up wandering for 45 grueling minutes. Pushing through the pain for that extra half hour was absolute agony.

When we finally found our way back, I slowly hobbled up the stairs to our room. With a massive sigh of relief, I finally collapsed onto the bed and propped my throbbing foot up. It felt amazing to take the pressure off my back and feet, but my mind wouldn’t quiet down right away. As I lay there in the quiet before sleep finally took over, it took a long time to process everything. My thoughts kept drifting back to the barracks and the courtyards, deeply reflecting on the profound weight of what we had seen that day. It was a day of absolute extremes—from the breathtaking beauty of the salt cathedral to the darkest corners of human history—and it is something that will stay with me forever.

Pushing through physical limitations to get the shot is becoming a bit of a theme for me. If you want to see how I managed another agonizing but rewarding shoot closer to home, check out my experience chasing the eclipse at Ainsdale Beach.

Day 3: The Main Market Square and Heading Home

After a hearty pre-booked breakfast at our hotel and a hassle-free checkout thanks to traveling with just a single rucksack each, severe back and foot pain caused us to pivot from visiting Kazimierz to a slower, manageable stroll through the Main Market Square (Rynek Główny). We wandered through the historic Cloth Hall’s wooden souvenir stalls and rested inside St. Mary’s Basilica, where hearing the hourly trumpet call (Hejnał Mariacki) offered a poignant and uplifting comfort.

Krakow Cloth Hall interior central market street with wooden stalls — Strolling through the long central corridor of the historic Cloth Hall, taking a slow walk past the traditional wooden souvenir stalls to escape the day’s strain. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F3.5, 1/30 sec, ISO 800

The famous "Eros Bendato" bronze sculpture of a giant, hollowed-out human head lying on its side in Kraków’s Main Market Square. — Igor Mitoraj’s famous bronze sculpture, Eros Bendato (Eros Bound), a striking modern landmark in the heart of Kraków’s historic Main Market Square. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F4, 1/250 sec, ISO 200

St Marys Basilica main entrance porch and brick towers in Krakow — Looking up at the striking entrance porch and brick facade of St. Mary’s Basilica, the beautiful ‘centre church’ where we stopped to rest on our final day. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F4, 1/250 sec, ISO 200

Heading toward the train station amidst agonizing plantar fasciitis, we passed the historic monastery and the circular Barbican. Due to the intense pain and reliance on sheer adrenaline, the exact order is a blur, with brief stops made solely to snap photos before moving on.

Front view of the historic cream-colored Czartoryski Museum building in Kraków with distinct red brick trim and a decorative stepped gable rooftop. — The striking Neo-Gothic facade and connecting brick aerial bridges of the historic Princes Czartoryski Museum complex. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F4, 1/250 sec, ISO 200

The historic red brick Kraków Barbican fortress featuring a large central pointed arch gateway and small circular watchtowers with green conical spires under a blue sky. — The imposing medieval defensive walls and fortified gateway of the historic Kraków Barbican. Canon PowerShot G7X Mark II, F4, 1/250 sec, ISO 200

We arrived at the airport remarkably early—allowing time to rest the throbbing foot—and breezed through passport control. Reflecting on the phenomenal trip, the physical pain provided a humbling, grounding perspective on the suffering endured by prisoners, making it a journey to carry forever

Looking back, it was a phenomenal trip that was well worth every bit of effort. It was physically painful, but I will always look at that discomfort in a unique way: it offered me a tiny, humbling glimpse into the immense suffering the prisoners endured daily. It grounded the entire experience and made sure the journey is one I will carry with me forever.

A Journey Deferred: Finding My Way to Krakow and Auschwitz